(or: how to get to know a city one glass at a time)

One of my favourite ways to settle into a place is to find a bar that feels right, sit down and order a drink. Milan, with its strong aperitivo scene, is perfect for this. And I really loved it.

I’ve loved Negronis for years, so having one in Milan felt like a must. But it was also a chance to try some of the other ways Campari shows up here: bitter, vivid, distinctive, and at the heart of so many drinks that fit the city’s rhythm.

Each of these four drinks was had in a different part of Milan. So this is a small guide not just to what to order, but where. The kind of bars I’m always looking for: well made drinks, thoughtful design, good lighting and a sense of care, but nothing too formal. Together, they offered a glimpse into four neighbourhoods, each with their own pace and personality.

1. A Negroni at Camparino

📍 Piazza Duomo, inside the Galleria

Camparino could easily feel over the top. It’s central, it’s iconic and it’s directly facing the Duomo. But somehow it gets the balance right. After a long, hot day, 36°C but feeling hotter, we stepped into the cool upstairs bar and instantly exhaled. Velvet seats, Duomo views through the arches, and just enough buzz to feel alive without being loud.

I ordered a Negroni. Cold, bitter, perfectly balanced. It’s one of my favourite drinks, so having it here, in the city where Campari was born, felt like the right way to begin. Familiar, but still special in that setting. Exactly what I wanted at the end of a long, hot day. And a nice reset before dinner.

2. A Campari Spritz at Citterio Garden

📍 Just off Via Brera, inside the Palazzo di Brera courtyard

This spot felt like a bit of a secret. Just behind the old market building on Via Brera, through a quiet courtyard and next to the botanical garden, it was calm and open in a way that’s rare in the centre. After the crowds, the walking and the heat, it was exactly the kind of pause we needed.

I ordered a Campari Spritz. Bright, slightly bitter, and exactly right for the setting. More grown-up than the sweeter versions you find elsewhere, and better for it. Easy to sip, unhurried, and completely in tune with the place.

3. A Milano-Torino at Les Rouges

📍 Porta Romana

Les Rouges sits on a quiet corner in Porta Romana. A few tables outside under the trees, soft light inside, and a space that felt both designed and easy. It had a certain coolness to it, but nothing off-putting, inviting and chill. The kind of bar you could stumble into or plan your evening around. Unpretentious, but still felt like somewhere special

I ordered a Milano-Torino. Just Campari and sweet vermouth, finished with a twist of orange. One of Italy’s original aperitivo cocktails, and a quiet nod to two cities in one glass: Milan and Turin, bitter and smooth. Simple, familiar, but with just enough depth to feel like something you pause for.

4. A Negroni Marinaio at Mag Café

📍 Navigli

Yes, I couldn’t help myself. Another Negroni. But this one came with a twist. At Mag Café, right on the Naviglio Grande, I ordered their Negroni Marinaio: a smoky, bitter version made with mezcal instead of gin, with a touch of coffee liqueur. Bold, slightly unexpected and a fun version of a classic drink.

Mag had a special menu running when we visited, part of their Discovery Plants series for spring and summer 2025, with cocktails inspired by botanicals. The space had that chaotic cool feel: slightly cluttered, a bit theatrical, but still cosy and welcoming. It felt lived-in and full of character. A little looser than the other places, but in the best way. It suited Navigli, and it was the right kind of drink to finish on.

Other Drinks to Try in Milan

  • Negroni Sbagliato – A happy mistake with prosecco in place of gin. Lighter, sparkling and very Milan.
  • Caffè Shakerato – Cold espresso shaken with ice and poured into a chilled glass. Like a non-alcoholic espresso martini, smooth and frothy. Perfect as a pick-me up on a hot afternoon.
  • Americano – Campari, vermouth and soda. Easy, refreshing and part of Milan’s aperitivo DNA.
  • Franciacorta – Lombardy’s answer to Champagne. Crisp and dry with fine bubbles.
  • Fernet-Branca – A sharp, herbal local amaro. Often served after dinner or with soda water.

Cin cin!