Milan might not be the first city that comes to mind when planning a trip to Italy, but I really loved it. Being from Paris and having spent time in Nice and the south of France, it felt familiar somehow: elegant, quietly energetic, and full of beauty, good food and aperitivi. It just asks you to tune in to its rhythm and let go of any clichés about what “Italian” should look like.
We had three days, and filled them with art, neighbourhood wandering, aperitivi and a bit of people-watching. Here’s what we explored and how I’d recommend getting to know the city.
Day 1: Masterpieces, Quiet Streets & Campari by the Canal
We started with The Last Supper and if you want to do the same, plan ahead. Tickets are released two months in advance, and again about two weeks before the date. They go fast and the only way to visit is as part of a guided tour. That’s how we got ours, by jumping on a last-minute release, but even then, the time slots disappeared within minutes.
A guide isn’t just required, it’s completely worth it. You only get 15 minutes in the room and they help make that time count: explaining how da Vinci experimented with oil on dry plaster rather than fresco, how that allowed for more detail, but also caused the painting to deteriorate quickly and how it’s been painstakingly restored over the centuries. It took him about four years to complete, with long pauses as he tested techniques or waited for inspiration or worked on other projects.
It’s painted right onto the wall of a monks’ dining hall. Imagine eating your lunch every day under that scene. It’s big, dramatic and full of feeling, more like a frozen moment from a play than a traditional fresco. One thing that really stayed with me: during WWII, the building was bombed, but locals had protected the painting with sandbags and scaffolding. Most of the room was destroyed, but The Last Supper survived. Even if you’ve seen the image a hundred times, seeing it in person is something else entirely. The room is dim, quiet and climate-controlled. The painting feels both massive and intimate.
From there, we walked to the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci. It’s a vast, slightly chaotic museum, but the galleries devoted to da Vinci are incredible, full of wooden models built from his drawings: flying machines, bridges, tools, war inventions. The range of his genius is staggering. Artist, engineer, anatomist, visionary. We wondered what he would have been like in person. Intimidating? Charismatic? Probably both.
A short walk away is the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, one of Milan’s oldest churches. It’s quieter than the Duomo, striped brick, pale stone, ancient mosaics and a peaceful cloister.
In the evening, you could head to Navigli, Milan’s canal district, for aperitivo and dinner. It’s a quick tram ride or half-hour walk from the Sant’Ambrogio area. At golden hour, the canals glow. It’s a little gritty, a little touristy, but has real energy. Grab a drink a bar with a view, then find a side street spot for a relaxed dinner.
Day 2: Spires, Castles & Wine in Brera
We started the morning slowly with coffee and breakfast at Cascina Cuccagna, a peaceful café with a leafy garden just outside the centre. They grow many of their own ingredients, and it’s the kind of place that makes you want to linger, quiet, calm, and full of charm.
Then we took the tram into the city centre and wandered through the grand Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a glowing arcade of glass ceilings, intricate mosaics, and luxury storefronts. It opens dramatically onto the Duomo, and stepping into the piazza to see the cathedral for the first time was unforgettable.
We’d booked a guided tour of the Duomo and I’d recommend doing the same. It’s not much more expensive than a regular ticket and adds so much context to your visit. The cathedral took nearly 600 years to complete. Napoleon was crowned here, and, among several places he crowned himself (he clearly liked crownings), he made sure the façade was finished just in time. And that façade is something else: pale, soaring and almost glowing. Every time I saw it again I was stunned. I wonder if locals stop noticing it. Maybe. Probably.
From there, we walked toward Castello Sforzesco, a grand red-brick fortress that feels imposing and somehow relaxed at the same time. You can walk through the courtyards or head behind it into Parco Sempione, Milan’s biggest park. Heading inside the castle itself requires tickets, which we skipped this time.
Then we headed into Brera, one of Milan’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods, stone streets, antique shops, galleries, and a slower, more local pace. We had aperitivo at Citterio Garden, a beautiful outdoor wine bar in Brera, lush, relaxed, and perfect as the light shifted, before dinner at Associazione Salumi e Vini Naturali. Think shelves of wine, boards of cheese and cured meats, and a warm, easygoing vibe. It felt welcoming and exactly the kind of place I seek out.
Day 3: Fashion, People-Watching & One Last Meal
We spent our last day wandering through the fashion district. Even if you’re not shopping, it’s worth walking through: beautiful window displays, elegant storefronts and some of the best-dressed people you’ll see. If you feel like pausing for a coffee or something stronger, you can stop at places like the Louis Vuitton café, Dolce & Gabbana Bar or Ralph Lauren restaurant.
Before heading to the airport, we had a late lunch or early dinner at Mercato Centrale, near Milano Centrale station. I wasn’t expecting much, but it totally blew me away. It’s a beautifully designed space with open kitchens, food stalls, espresso bars, natural wine, fresh pasta, pastries, pizza… lively but not overwhelming. A perfect final meal before heading to the airport.
Milan: Final Thoughts
Three days in Milan felt like the right amount, enough to settle in, get a sense of its rhythm, and fall for its layered charm. What stood out wasn’t just the beauty of the Duomo or the genius of da Vinci, but the everyday moments: a perfectly made Negroni, a quiet street at golden hour, a pool tucked behind a theatre.
